Accessories, inexpensive analogues and other devices in stock (3). Accessories, inexpensive analogues and other devices in stock(3) Stabilized rectifier tes 12 3 nt
This text was written not so much for the sake of reviewing the power supply board itself, respected Kirich and other authors succeeded in this, but rather for the sake of describing the design I received as a whole, with the additions necessary, in my opinion, for this power supply in the form of a fan thermal controller and indicator voltage and current, automatic switch of transformer windings, electronic load disconnection, and the power transformer itself and the housing. Some of the devices were purchased on AliExpress, and the other part was assembled from scratch. For the former there will be links, and for the latter there will be diagrams...
So, the components used: 
- 150W, having 2 windings of 12 volts, purchased in a chip and dip. Such a transformer was selected taking into account the possibility of switching windings, dividing the range of output voltages into 2 subranges - 0-11V and everything higher (using either one 12 volt winding or 2 series-connected windings of the same type, giving a total of ~24V). On top of the two factory secondary windings, 2 additional windings were wound. The first is a low-power 13V to power additional devices and a cooling fan. The second winding is more powerful, 7V, wound with a 1.5mm wire (I could have used a thinner one, but I had one), to power a separate 5V USB output connected to a 7805 linear stabilizer;
- laboratory power supply from AliExpress. The set really began to cost a penny - a little more than $5. Flew to Minsk in 29 days, the track was tracked. The board I assembled is pictured above. I only replaced the complete 10,000 µF condenser and rectifier diodes with a current of 5A. Change operational amplifiers before you start...;
- with temperature indicator and remote temperature sensor also from AliExpress.
The temperature controller, costing $1.65, arrived in Minsk in 22 days, the track was tracked. An excellent device, I must say. It can operate in one of two modes - cooling or heating. That is, depending on the selected mode, the thermal controller controls either the heater (turns on if the temperature drops below the set one) or the fan (turns on if the temperature exceeds the set one). To turn off the fan or heater, set the hysterisis value. The controller is controlled using 3 buttons, the values are displayed on a 3-character indicator. There are detailed instructions on the seller's page
Instructions
- voltage and current from AliExpress. Price $3.94. The order took 5 weeks to arrive, the track was not tracked. It should be noted that the indicator turned out to be quite suitable, we will test it later;
- Homemade unit for switching transformer windings (found on the Internet). This is perhaps the most important addition to a linear regulated power supply. The fact is that the efficiency of such sources is not very high, especially at low output voltages. So, for example, with an output voltage of 5V and a current of, say, 3A, the output transistor should dissipate about 75W. And in this mode, when the power supply is powered by 24 volts AC (2 windings of 12 volts), the cooling fan, controlled by a thermal controller, almost never turns off. And with an input voltage of ~12V, on the contrary, it turns on very rarely and for a short time. Thus, this addition allows you to significantly improve the operating modes of the power supply, especially considering that I mainly use voltages up to 12V. The only thing is that the solution I have chosen is not the best, because when the voltage decreases, at the moment of switching the windings from two to one (from 24V to 12V), a short dip in the output voltage occurs. The triac circuit is devoid of such a drawback. But for myself, I decided that this nuance is not important to me. 
The device is assembled on a breadboard; a rectifier and a 12V voltage stabilizer are located right there, from which the relay, thermal controller and fan are powered. For this stabilizer, an additional low-power winding was wound on the transformer;
- And this is a completely homemade electronic load connection unit, more about it:
So, a little technical specification.
After turning on the power supply, the load must be disconnected regardless of the last state.
- The switched off load should be indicated by a flashing red LED.
- A constantly lit green LED should indicate that the load is on.
- The load is connected using a relay.
- Hardware contact bounce suppression.
The circuit has been corrected, thanks to users IIIap, varicap and alexky who noticed it (wrong polarity of the protective diode). The circuit is built on a cheap Atmel ATtiny2313 microcontroller and a 74HC14 Schmitt trigger.
The circuit is powered by 12 volts, which are necessary for the relay to operate. A 7805 linear converter is used to power the microcircuits.
After switching on, the red LED VD2 flashes. The 74HC11 Schmitt trigger allows you to finally and irrevocably get rid of contact bounce. When the button is pressed, LED VD2 goes out and VD1 (green) lights up, at the same time transistor VT1 opens and relay K1 turns on. The next time you press the load and the green LED VD1 are turned off, the red LED VD2 starts flashing. Diode VD1 protects the transistor from voltage surges on the relay coil. The circuit is assembled on a breadboard. If you do not install a Schmitt trigger at the input (and deal with bounce using software), then you need a 10K pull-up resistor on pin 7 of the microcontroller. There are plans to add another control channel to the int0 microcontroller input. The USB output will be controlled.
The control program is written in the Bascom environment.
In the main cycle, the red LED flashes, provided that the PB2 output is low, i.e. the load is disconnected and the green LED is off. When Int1 is interrupted, the Swbutton subroutine is called. The Toggle operator switches the states of the PB2 output (if it was 1, it will become 0 and vice versa). After switching the output, the program returns to the main loop until the next interruption;
The source is under the spoiler
$regfile = "attiny2313.dat"
$crystal = 4000000
Config Portb.1 = Output
Config Portb.2 = Output
Config Pind.3 = INPUT
Config Int1 = Falling
Dim Time As Byte
On Int1 Swbutton
Enable Interrupts
Enable Int1
Do
if pinb.2 = 0 Then
Set Portb.1
Waitms Wtime
Reset Portb.1
Waitms Wtime
Else
‘Pinb.4 = 0
End If
Loop
End
Swbutton:
Toggle Portb.2
- Relay. On the left is a relay in a blue case, used to turn on/off the load, and a relay in a transparent case, the first group of contacts switches the transformer windings, and the second group turns on the LED indicating the connection of the second winding;
- And finally, the finished housing from the old tape streamer. 2Gb DDS cartridges have not been relevant for a very long time, so the device was mercilessly disassembled for spare parts. And the case with its original fan was perfect for my power supply;
This is the front panel. Temporary, because I will redo the layout and the material of the insert will need to be changed (it was white foam plastic - it looks clumsy, but there will be a plug from the computer case, which matches the color of the entire device). But this will happen a little later, when they arrive from China. A USB connector will also be added. The red regulator is voltage, the blue one is current (the colors of the knobs are selected in accordance with the colors of the indicator segments). The rectangular green LED under the indicator begins to glow when the second winding of the transformer is connected. Above the blue regulator is an LED indicating current stabilization (red). Well, in the area of the output terminals there is a red load connection button and a two-color LED (red-green). 
Everything is done on connectors - the front panel is completely removable. The output of the power supply is connected to the front panel via a Deans type connector, which is used for batteries of remotely controlled models;
All components are connected to each other according to the following diagram (corrected, thanks to user MisHel64): 
A little assembly: 
The winding switch and load disconnect blocks are assembled into a sandwich and installed near the front panel. A load disconnect relay and a fan thermal controller board are installed nearby.
On the inside, a radiator (from some old processor) is screwed to the case fan. A transistor and a thermal controller sensor are screwed to the radiator using thermal paste. Everything is installed in the case from the back.
The main board is mounted on high racks with the parts facing down. Although this arrangement is not the most thermally efficient, there is no other way to place the board and transformer in this case.
I decided to connect the transformer windings using Wago terminals, it turned out very convenient. The wires are a little messy, although they were laid out and tied together with zip ties. Maybe I'll change it later... 
And the last component is a 5V stabilizer, mounted on a radiator. And a couple of final photos, a rear view and the assembled power supply. On the back are the power connector, power switch, fuse and switch (blue) for the additional 5V line. 
Now let's move on to testing. Let me make a reservation right away that we will be testing not so much the power supply board itself, but the entire assembly assembly. Let's start with the indicator. Under the spoiler there are visual photos of testing. The readings were compared with the reference professional digital multimeter Aktak AM-1095.
Voltmeter reading testing
The ammeter was tested using a 10 Ohm 50 W load resistor.
If we remember Ohm's law, we can easily estimate that with this resistor, the current readings should be 10 times less than the voltmeter readings, which we will now verify. We will continue to compare the readings with Aktacom. Testing ammeter readings
After the measurements, I even began to respect this indicator and I wanted to call it a “device”)).
But it was not possible to get more than 26V from the power supply board at a 10 Ohm load and a current of 2.6A, although at idle the power supply produces 31V.
Testing current stabilization (multimeter, in current measurement mode, directly connected to the output terminals):
We see that current adjustment is possible up to 3.6A.
I finally decided to find out what the output voltage drop would be at almost maximum current. I found two 3.3 Ohm 50 W resistors, connected them in series and connected them to the output terminals - the result is in the photo: 
More tests:
Let's compare the voltage at the output of the rectifier with the output. (On a multimeter, the voltage is at the output of the diode bridge)
Left without load, right with load: 
The same thing, but we measure the change at the trance output: 
Small conclusions:
- the voltage at the trance output drops by 1.6V under load, although the transformer is 150W, and the output is about 80W.
- the voltage at the output of the diode bridge drops under the same load, already by 6V.
- the output voltage drops by 8.5V at the same load of about 80W.
Of course, we need to do something about this... although this operating range is quite enough for me to work with.
Well, all that remains is to measure the ripple, although for linear power supplies this is probably unnecessary and should be done more quickly to emphasize their problem-free nature in this regard, although...
We measure pulsations
I’ll make a reservation right away, because... The block is linear, you shouldn’t pay attention to the frequency meter readings - it measures just about anything... We measure: effective value (minimum readings in the screenshots), maximum peak (average readings) and range (maximum values).
10V, 1A: 
10V, 2.1A: 
12V, 3.5A: 
24V, 3.5A: 
everything is beautiful, but there is a nuance: when the block is close to the moment when the voltage begins to sag, i.e. is close to its limit, then wild interference arises from somewhere. In the photo below, only 1 winding of the trance is working, i.e. About 12V AC is supplied to the input of the power supply, and the load of 3A has already reached the limit and there is interference. And if more voltage were supplied to the input, the unit would operate normally. This is a nuance that needs to be taken into account.
10V, 3A: 
Purchase Confirmation
In this review, I looked at 3 products I purchased, as well as a couple of useful homemade add-ons. The device turned out to be suitable, but with some nuances. At a minimum, I'll try to replace the output transistor, because... information leaked that the Chinese had them counterfeit.
So my first review has come to an end. Express your opinions. Thank you for your attention! I'm planning to buy +54 Add to favorites I liked the review +112 +209
A.L. Butov, s. Kurba, Yaroslavl region.
Currently, it is difficult to find a radio amateur who, once in his life, has not tried to assemble at least a simple low-frequency power amplifier. Manufacturing even a simple amplifier from a “clean sheet” inevitably takes a lot of time, and a significant part of the time is spent not on assembling the amplifier module, but on various side work, for example, manufacturing the case, front panel, winding the transformer. Therefore, in order to reduce the time spent on manufacturing a finished structure, you can actually use ready-made units and components, which will dramatically reduce the hours spent on assembly. As a result, taking into account direct and indirect costs, a homemade design will not cost much more than a similar serial one, and if you had to buy a minimum of components at retail prices, it may even be cheaper.
Once, a Bulgarian power supply unit called the “Stabilized Current Rectifier TES-12-3-NT”, produced in 1985, underwent trepanation. This device was assembled in a chic, by modern standards, all-metal duralumin case with dimensions of 240x210x55 mm with thick walls (see photo), on which it is written “12V - FOR”. Previously, this device was used to power a radio station; after the collapse of the USSR, our agriculture no longer needed radio stations, and this power supply continued to serve as an energy source for a simple Chinese radio tape recorder that played sound in a personal plot. The Chinese radio tape recorder suffered from high fever, chronic bronchitis, memory loss and a weak voice, which is why its symbiosis with the power supply shown in the photo had to be broken. And so that the amateur gardener would not be left in his garden plot and in the pool without music and news, it was decided to install a homemade audio frequency power amplifier and a VHF radio receiver into the durable stainless steel case of this power supply.
A boring search in directories and price lists for an UMZCH microcircuit suitable for this power supply led to an inexpensive microcircuit like TDA1521, intended for building middle-class amplifiers. The microcircuit has built-in “click” protection, thermal protection and short circuit protection in the load circuit. The microcircuit provides an output power of 2x12... 15 W at a load of 4...8 Ohms. Its minimum supply voltage is 15 V (unipolar), the maximum is 42 V. When the supply voltage drops below 15 V, the operation of the microcircuit is blocked. The TDA1521 microcircuit is capable of operating in both dual-channel and single-channel bridge modes; it can be powered with either a unipolar or bipolar supply voltage. The stereo amplifier, assembled according to the circuit in Fig. 1, uses unipolar power. 
Unipolar power supply requires high-capacity oxide capacitors at the amplifier outputs for a relatively high operating voltage. About 20 years ago, such capacitors were also famous for their large dimensions; currently, the sizes of oxide capacitors with a capacity of 2000 μF or more have decreased several times, and their cost is almost symbolic. The presence of separating capacitors at the output of the UMZCH allows you to avoid damage to speaker systems when the UMZCH microcircuit fails, as well as biasing the speakers by the zero bias current, which worsens the sound. The amplifier is assembled according to a circuit close to the standard one. Resistor R3 adjusts the volume, switch SB1 can switch the operating mode of the device. In one mode, the amplifier input will be connected to the radio receiver built into the power supply unit, in the other - to an external signal source. The voltage gain of the microcircuit is about 30. The amplifier does not have a balance control for stereo channels and tone controls due to the lack of need for this and because the UMZCH components were outdated 15 years ago. This is no longer the 60-80 years of the last century, when the wear of a cheap, short-lived magnetic head of an audio tape recorder was compensated for by turning the tone control knobs all the way. 
Figure 2 shows the block diagram of the TDA1521 integrated circuit. The 12 V voltage stabilizer in the TES-12-3-NT power supply had to be eliminated, since it stabilized the “minus” and not the “plus”, as desired. If desired, a stabilizer with a common “minus” can be assembled on any suitable integrated circuit. What was left from the cunning Bulgarian product was the case, power transformer T1, rectifier diodes VD1, VD2, capacitors C9-C13, LED and power switch SA1. The power supply unit was redesigned as shown in Fig. 3. 
Also in this figure you can see the +3.2 V voltage regulator for powering the radio receiver module and how this radio receiver module is connected. This module uses a customized board from a primitive Chinese pocket radio with automatic search for radio stations. Tuning into a radio station is done using two buttons, the sensitivity is very high, the sound quality is relatively mediocre, inferior to the sound of neatly and competently assembled homemade radios based on the well-known K174XA34 microcircuit. Such radios were popular in the second half of the 1990s and early 2000s. Since the author did not want to assemble another radio receiver, after explaining to the owner of the power supply what was required of him, without much hesitation he brought a Chinese toy, the board from which eventually settled next to the homemade amplifier.
A photo of the appearance of what happened in the end is shown in Fig. 4.
The amplifier board is located on the left in the photo, the voltage rectifier and +3.2 V stabilizer boards are in the middle, the power transformer is at the top right, the radio receiver module is at the bottom right. To tune into radio stations, two buttons with freely open contacts made on the basis of microswitches are connected in parallel to the standard membrane buttons of the radio. The wires from the radio board to these buttons should be as short as possible.
Details:
Instead of a TDA1521 type chip, you can install a TDA1521Q. The TDA1521A chip is not suitable for working in this design. The microcircuit must be installed on a heat sink, which can be a metal housing of the structure. A thin mica insulating gasket must be installed between the microcircuit and the metal case. The microcircuit is pressed against the heat sink using two M3 screws and a metal plate. Between the microcircuit body and the pressure plate it is necessary to install a thin gasket made of thick electrical cardboard, which will prevent deformation and damage to the microcircuit body. When installing a microcircuit on a heat sink, heat transfer paste is used.
Instead of the KT815V transistor, you can use any of the KT815, KT817, KT805 series. The KS139A zener diode can be replaced by KS407B, KS139G, 2S139A, 1N4730A, BZX/BZV55C-3V9. Instead of a KD521A diode, any low-power one will do, for example 1M4148, KD522A. Bulgarian KD2002 diodes can be replaced with any of the KD213, KD206, KD242, R600 series. Oxide capacitors are imported analogues of K50-35, non-polar - any ceramic or film, designed for an operating voltage of less than 63 V. Capacitors C6.C7 in the amplifier circuit are installed near the power terminals of the DA1 microcircuit. The variable resistor was installed as a dual type SPZ-Z0a. The common wire is connected to the metal case at one point, preferably close to this resistor. The interference suppression choke L4 contains 6 turns of double-folded stranded mounting wire, which can be wound on a ring with a diameter of 16...24 mm from any low-frequency ferrite. Chokes L1, L2 can be wound on the same ferrite rings; they contain 2 turns of mounting wire folded in half. Choke L3 contains 24 turns of PEV-2-0.43 wire, wound on a cardboard mandrel with a diameter of 3 mm. You can use any suitable transformer T1, designed for a load current of at least 3 A. When using a full-wave rectifier circuit, the voltage on each secondary winding should be 18...22 V. When constructing a rectifier using a bridge circuit, one such winding is sufficient. Fuse FU1 is a regular fuse, FU2 is a self-recovering fuse of any type for a current of 3...4 A.
Working with the device
When the amplifier operates for a long time at maximum power, its metal body-heat sink almost does not heat up. If your “garden” amplifier design is approximately the same, and you prefer music to the lively chirping of birds and the barking of rural dogs, do not expose the amplifier on a hot summer day to direct sunlight, otherwise the design may suffer heat stroke and the associated premature death.
The quality of operation of an amplifier assembled on a two-channel TDA1521 microcircuit is comparable to similar amplifiers assembled on the somewhat undeservedly popular TDA2030. Undeservedly because for a long time there have been microcircuits with similar switching circuits that are superior to this microcircuit in basic parameters, for example TDA2051H. If you decide to partially or completely repeat this design, then you should not focus specifically on the TDA1521 chip. It is likely that in your area, for the task at hand and for an existing or newly assembled power supply, there will be microcircuits with the best parameters at an affordable price.
To create this design, 22 man-hours were spent and about 9 USD were spent. This amount includes: the cost of the microcircuit, oxide capacitors and a self-recovering fuse. All other parts were used from disassembled old, shareware equipment. The cost of solder, rosin, coffee and $0.2 per 4 kWh of electricity consumed during assembly of the device is not taken into account. With the typical cost of male hired labor in our area being about 5-7 USD per hour, we find that creating the structure cost at least 125 USD. Against this background, if every hour of your life is expensive, it is more expedient and more profitable to go to the store and for 125 USD buy a ready-made amplifier with real 2x10...15 W of output power, small speaker systems and a remote control.
In conclusion, in the author's opinion, it is not worth spending hundreds and thousands of hours on creating "the best amplifier in the world." It is much more important what you listen to, with whom you listen, which performers, which composers, and not how and on what one-day “hits” are listened to.
RA 10*2008
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