Handsome man. Russian fashionista of the middle of the 18th - beginning of the 20th century

A major exhibition project of the St. Petersburg Museum of Theatrical and Musical Art “Handsome man. Russian fashionista at the theater” is dedicated to the phenomenon of male panache in Russia, the famous fashionistas of Russian literature and theater, the images of dandies and dandies on the theater stage of the late 18th - early 20th centuries. This project inherited the theme, title and some of the exhibits from the exhibition of the State Historical Museum, which was brilliantly held in Moscow in 2017. However, the new curatorial concept dictates significant differences in the subject range of the exposition: The Museum of Theater and Musical Art explores not so much men's everyday fashion as its reflection on the stage, its influence on the theatrical language of different eras from caricatures of fashionable ladies to the emergence and development of roles hero lover.
The trends of any time are especially clearly and clearly manifested on the theater stage: literary tastes and manner of expression, topical events and fashion trends take on a catchy form in the theater, shown enlarged, as if under a magnifying glass. The theatrical "extractions" of men's fashion of different styles and eras make it possible to discover with all clarity how, during the late 18th - early 20th centuries, public ideas about the ideal man - a handsome man, a war hero or a lover hero - changed. This task is the focus of the exhibition of the Museum of Theater and Musical Art “Handsome Man. Russian fashionista at the theatre. The Petersburg project, without repeating the exposition of the State Historical Museum, writes a new chapter in a fascinating story, is a kind of sequel to the Moscow blockbuster exhibition.
In the St. Petersburg series of the project "Handsome Man" three storylines can be traced. One of them is connected with the history of things, household trifles in the era of Fonvizin, Pushkin, Ostrovsky or Chekhov. Along with caftans, camisoles, dress coats and other elements of the men's wardrobe, special attention will be given to canes and powder flasks, seals and buckles, earmuffs and men's corsets, devices for cleaning nails and ears, powder boxes, mussels and ballroom notebooks - gizmos that are so necessary for every fashionista, which now look outlandish exotic. A variety of smoking accessories, glasses and lorgnettes, pocket watches of the 18th-20th centuries are devoted to separate cameo episodes.
The memorial plot of the exhibition is a natural continuation of the "history of men's trifles". Portrait of P. Ya. Chaadaev, A. S. Pushkin’s vest, M. I. Glinka’s fez, A. N. Ostrovsky’s cane, A. K. Glazunov’s pince-nez, V. V. Samoilov’s ring or F. I. Chaliapin’s snuffbox are played by the presenters roles in the exhibition-performance, become the tellers of whole stories about their famous owners and their attitude to fashion.
Things of famous actors are the subject of special curatorial interest. Until the end of the 19th century, actors often went on stage in their own clothes, their fashionable accessories became elements of the theatrical image - whether sublime, tragic or comedy-caricature. The personal belongings of V. V. Samoilov, K. A. Varlamov, N. N. Figner, F. I. Stravinsky, F. I. Chaliapin coexist with their stage costumes, portraits and photographs, creating reference images of a “handsome man”. The theatrical plot of the exhibition would not be complete without literary heroes: from Onegin and Chatsky to Antropka from I. A. Krylov's Fashion Store. Their incarnations on the stages of St. Petersburg theaters throughout the whole century have been carefully studied and reflected in the exposition.
The prologue to the historical part of the exposition will be the theatrical “black cabinet” with a gallery of portraits of modern “handsome men”. Photos of famous actors and directors of the 20th - early 21st centuries, trendsetters and idols of the general public - from G. A. Tovstonogov, V. I. Strzhelchik, I. O. Gorbachev to F. S. Ruzimatov and D. V. Kozlovsky - will be placed in a row, as in the foyer of a real theater. The photographs taken by the brilliant masters Valery Plotnikov, Valentin Baranovsky, Yuri Belinsky and other photographers will give a point of support to the viewer who sets off on a journey through the styles and eras of men's fashion, as if hinting: "Everything flows, but nothing changes."
In the project “Handsome man. Russian fashionista at the theater” is attended by the Peterhof State Museum Reserve, the State Museum of A. S. Pushkin (Moscow), the All-Russian Museum of A. S. Pushkin (St. Petersburg), the State Museum of the History of St. Petersburg, the St. Petersburg Theater Library, Russian National Library Alexandrinsky Theatre, Museum of the Bolshoi Drama Theatre, Museum of the Theater. Lensoviet, Museum of the theater-festival "Baltic House", magazines "Sobaka.ru" and "Caravan of stories". The St. Petersburg State Museum of Theatrical and Musical Art will present at the exhibition rare costumes from the wardrobe of the imperial theaters, sketches of scenery and costumes, posters, theater programs and photographs of different times, and jewelry items kept in the funds. Many exhibits of the exhibition will be shown to the public for the first time.

April 4, 2018 at 16.00 in the Sheremetev Palace (34 Fontanka River Embankment) will open exhibition “Handsome man. Russian dandy at the theater», dedicated to the phenomenon of male panache in Russia, the famous fashionistas of Russian literature and theater, the images of the dandy on the theater stage of the late 18th - early 20th centuries. For the exhibition, the Alexandrinsky Theater provided more than 50 authentic old costumes and details of the men's wardrobe of the late 18th-early 20th centuries, which were used in many performances and have now become part of the cultural and historical heritage. Silk-embroidered satin camisoles and velvet caftans trimmed with metallic lace, elaborately trimmed Hungarians and luxurious homemade arhaluk robes, frock coats and tailcoats of the finest English cloth, elegant waistcoats from the best French tailors, detachable collars and cuffs and a variety of small things will again appear before the public, as well as many years ago, when recognized masters and ordinary extras of the St. Petersburg imperial theaters (not only the Russian drama troupe, but also the ballet, as well as the St. Petersburg Italian opera, French drama) appeared on the stage in these costumes.
Each costume has its own unique creative biography, some stages of which we can learn from the inscriptions preserved on the lining. Sometimes inside one suit you can read the names of various actors: the middle or the end of the 19th century, the beginning of the 20th century, the war and post-war years.
Until the end of the 19th century, actors often went on stage in their own clothes, their fashionable accessories became elements of the theatrical image. Personal belongings of V.V. Samoilova, K.A. Varlamova, N.N. Figner, F.I. Stravinsky, F.I. Chaliapin side by side with their stage costumes, portraits and photographs, creating reference images of a "handsome man". The theatrical plot of the exhibition would not be complete without literary heroes: from Onegin and Chatsky to Antropka from I.A. Krylov. Their incarnations on the stages of St. Petersburg theaters throughout the whole century have been carefully studied and reflected in the exposition.
The prologue to the historical part of the exposition will be the theatrical "black cabinet" with a gallery of portraits of famous actors and directors of the 20th - early 21st centuries, trendsetters and idols of the general public.
In the project “Handsome man. Russian fashionista at the theater" is also attended by the State Museum "Peterhof", the State Museum of A. S. Pushkin (Moscow), the All-Russian Museum of A. S. Pushkin (St. Petersburg), the State Museum of the History of St. Petersburg, the St. Petersburg Theater Library, Russian National Library, Museum of the Bolshoi Drama Theatre, Museum of the Theater. Lensoviet, Museum of the theater-festival "Baltic House", magazines "Sobaka.ru" and "Caravan of stories".

For the first time presenting to the public a project entirely dedicated to the history of men's fashion and the phenomenon of male panache in Russia.
Currently, men's fashion is experiencing a period of unprecedented prosperity. The attention of fashion magazine reviewers, fashion historians, bloggers is riveted to men's fashion weeks - after all, it is there that the most interesting and daring experiments take place. In Russia, especially in large cities, designer clothing and accessories stores for men, men's cosmetics stores, men's hairdressers and barbershops are opening, new men's magazines and all kinds of men's style guides are coming out. Every year, interest in the history of men's fashion is growing not only among specialists, but also among the general public, which is no coincidence: in order to see the ways for the further development of fashion, you need to know its history.

The exhibition presents three of the brightest periods in the history of men's fashion in Imperial Russia. The first period refers to the middle - second half of the XVIII century. It was at this time that European-style mods appeared in the court environment, or, as they were then called, petimeters. The second period falls on the first third of the 19th century and is associated with the penetration of fashion into Russia for the style of British dandies. The third period refers to the first two decades of the 20th century and passes, on the one hand, under the sign of mass culture, and on the other, the refined aesthetics of decadence.
The exhibition presents more than 600 items from the funds of the State Historical Museum, the State Museum of A.S. Pushkin, the State Historical Library, the Russian State Library, and the Alexander Vasiliev Foundation (Vilnius). Among the exhibits are examples of men's dress and underwear, jewelry and fashion accessories, beauty care products; paintings, prints, photographs, cartoons, magazines and books. Many of the items presented at the exhibition will be shown to the public for the first time. Collected in one space, they will recreate the charming image of fashionistas of the past. The rich artistic material will enable visitors to enjoy magnificent paintings, luxurious costumes and objects of arts and crafts.
The exhibition will present a unique men's fragrance, specially developed for the State Historical Museum by the Russian brand of natural perfumery Selection Excellence.
The exhibition will last until July 28, 2017.

Address: Exhibition complex of the Historical Museum. Revolution Square, 2/3.
Working mode: Monday - Sunday from 10:00 to 18:00; Friday and Saturday from 10:00 to 21:00. Ticket offices close 1 hour before the end of the museum
Tuesday is a day off.
Ticket price: 300 rubles. There are benefits. Details.
Persons under the age of 16, regardless of citizenship - for free.
Last Sunday of every month:
Students of Russian colleges, technical schools, universities
regardless of the form of education; Students aged 16 to 18 (upon presentation of a certificate from the place of study); Members of large families - for free.

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Galina Tsvetaeva reviews: 251 ratings: 253 rating: 322

Almost all museums are closed on Mondays. And I have two hours of free time. I was in the center, I remembered the exhibition hall of the Historical Museum, it turned out to be closed without any announcements. Turning around, I saw a poster on the Museum "War of 1812" of the exhibition "Handsome Man", I decided to visit this exhibition. Too bad there was no tour. But, it was interesting enough. The exposition is divided into three parts: petimeters, dandy, decadence. Lots of explanatory information. All the exhibits are well lit and you can approach and examine them carefully. First department: petimeters. Not only are items of clothing from the fund of Alexander Vasiliev (Vilnius) presented, but it is clearly shown in the portraits how men of the age of petimeter looked like. Surprisingly, the men were not very large, judging by the suits. And they had different decorations - the sea. One can only wonder at the quantity. The next section is dandy. I immediately remembered Pushkin: "How a London dendy is dressed - and, finally, he saw the light." You immediately imagine social life, balls, clubs, receptions, the idle life of a young rake. How many different bottles, devices, cane knobs with secrets, in which knives, nail files, and so on were kept. Then decadence with its sophistication, sophistication. What a beautiful preservation of top hats, hats, underwear. It's hard to imagine how it survived. Gorgeous things for golf, sports were fashionable.
I really liked the things of the British School of Design. What talented designers we have. The things created by them are incomparable, they combine outrageousness and practicality. They can and should be worn, introduced into mass production. Bright colors decorate life, improve mood. It's great that at least a few wear this.
The exhibition is interesting for everyone who is not indifferent to fashion, its development, who wants to take a fresh look at old things and find something for themselves in new things.
Two hours flew by unnoticed, because it was interesting. Thanks to the organizers for the fascinating presentation of the material and my admiration for the designers of the British School of Design.

Nadezhda Nikolaeva reviews: 21 ratings: 21 rating: 4

We visited the exhibition at the State Historical Museum - "Handsome man. Russian fashionista of the middle of the XVIII - early XX century." This is the first major project in Russia entirely dedicated to the history of men's fashion. The exhibition features more than 600 items. Among the exhibits are examples of men's dress and underwear, there are modern suits, jewelry and fashion accessories, beauty care products, paintings, prints, photographs, cartoons, magazines and books. All men's dresses are made from natural fabrics: cloth, wool, brocade, silk, satin. The costumes are chic! And the shoe buckles are a masterpiece! And snuffboxes, and embroidered vests, caftans, camisoles, purses and wallets - all this is a real work of art. What were craftswomen and masters! This is how our Russian fashionistas dressed! In the novel "Eugene Onegin" Alexander Sergeevich Pushkin writes about the newest Russians: "... Dashing fashion, our tyrant, the disease of the newest Russians!" Just think two hundred years ago, there were the newest Russians, with an invincible predilection for fashion. Fashion extends not only to clothes and shoes. Everything external is fashion, these are fashionable writers, artists, poets, etc. To fall behind fashion means for many to fall behind life. So it was in the time of Pushkin, so it is in our times.
There are a lot of interesting things to consider, I recommend and better with a guide, a different perception, the exhibits come to life.

Maya Sugakova reviews: 27 ratings: 27 rating: 15

Passion analysis.
"Fandorin dressed as an inconspicuous Englishman: black bowler hat, black jacket, black trousers, black tie. In Moscow, he would probably be mistaken for an undertaker, but in London, he must be considered invisible." Boris Akunin "Azazel"
On Red Square in the Historical Museum there is an exhibition "Handsome man Russian dandy in the middle of the 18th and early 20th centuries." The exhibition is NOT crammed with antique items and weapons, it is laconic and slightly cold, in three huge rooms of the exhibition hall there is a quick illumination, because it was said by a famous writer that “a noble man remembers: dignity is not in what happens to you, but in how you you're behaving!" . There are three rooms at the exhibition where insignia of clothing and accessories are collected, when something French was fashionable, and then something English, and then fashion united with all foreign habits and became different. It's great that at the exhibition I did not find inscriptions of "hackneyed" phrases that everything should be fine in a person, about the fact that beauty will save the world and other standard well-known phrases. In the inscriptions above ancient objects, one can read other interesting passages and quotations from the primary sources of that time. I learned for myself a new, but already outdated for us, the word "five meters", which means young secular dandies, dandies, imitating everything French. “Here was a favorite place of Moscow dandies - five meters, as the then satirical literature called them.” E. Radzinsky, "Princess Tarakanova". Officer's uniform, jewelry, the ability to tie a tie in several ways, look at a lorgnette in time, properly powder a wig, put on a hat, including a straw hat, which should be EXCLUSIVELY with a black ribbon, sniff tobacco in a mannered manner, taking out an elegant snuffbox, sneezing at the caricatures of those times that ridiculed fashion and fashionistas, being able to dance the tango and being an athlete - all these are signs of a time of decadence, dandyism and courtesy. Several items seemed extremely bulky to me, and some behind the glass seemed slightly fragile and frail, such were the dimensions of the handsome men of that time. The connection between five meters and modernity is a few exhibits of the British School, and they are so good in everything that one marvels at the talents of the Russian land in a foreign land. After the exhibition, near the exit, there is a book of reviews in which guests write down their impressions, please take the time to look through it, believe me, it is no less interesting in its details than the exhibition, which will last until the end of July.